Scrumptious Street

Red Wine Linguine with Broccolini and Chorizo

Cooking with alcohol has been a theme in the past at Scrumptious Street and it's a tried and true technique in my kitchen that I use very frequently.  But, every once in a while I come up with something so good and unique I must share it with all of you.  This one is a riff on a fairly known concept in Italian cooking, Risotto al Barolo, or cooking risotto in Barolo Italian red wine.  I asked myself "why stop at rice?" and tried it out with pasta.  The result was so scrumptious and wonderful, here is my "Red Wine Linguine with Broccolini, Sun-Dried Tomatoes and Chorizo." 

Yes, it's not classically Italian nor even purely Italian.  I borrowed an Italian-style idea and then just paired up the flavors that I knew my taste buds would love; broccolini for an earthy and somewhat bitter flavor, sun-dried tomatoes for a hearty and sweeter undertone and chorizo for a nice smoky and spicy kick. While it may seem a bizarre Mediterranean fusion dish, the point is that it just turned out damned good! Try it and you'll taste what I mean.

The wine for this dish really needs to be a big, bold, fruity and spicy wine. While the Barolo is the classic Italian vino to use here, I had a wonderful California Zinfandel on hand and it was awesome! It particularly engages well with the chorizo via their mutual spiciness.  Make sure you use a hearty wine you think is delicious, because its flavor will overtake the pasta and become the taste of the noodle.  That's what you want!

Here's how I pulled it together in my recipe:

Ingredients
Serves 2 as entreé, 4 as appetizer course

1/2 lb. linguine
1 1/2 c. zinfandel or other bold red wine
2 T. extra virgin olive oil
1/4 lb. chorizo or other spicy and smoky sausage, removed from casings and finely crumbled
1 bunch tender broccolini
4 sun-dried tomatoes cured in olive oil, sliced
3 cloves fresh garlic, minced
1/4 tsp. red chili flakes
sea salt to taste
freshly ground black pepper to taste
4-5 leaves fresh basil, minced
parmigiano reggiano cheese to taste

Method:

1. Bring a large stockpot  of water to boil and throw in a small handful of sea salt.  Add the linguine and boil the pasta for 6 minutes.

2. In a very large skillet or flat-bottom pan bring the red wine to steaming over medium-low heat.

3. In a third pan, heat the extra virgin olive oil and then sauté the chorizo.  When just starting to cook, add the broccolini, sun-dried tomatoes and garlic and sauté until the broccolini is tender and the chorizo is cooked to pink perfection, about 5 minutes. Season to taste with the salt, pepper and red chili flakes

4. At this point the pasta should have cooked 6 minutes, about half-done.  Drain it with a colander or the insert to a pasta stockpot.  Bring the wine in the large skillet to a high simmer and add the half-cooked linguine.  Keep it at a strong simmer, just below boiling and cook until the wine is nearly absorbed.  When the pasta is almost perfectly al dente, gently add the sauteéd veggies and sausage to the pasta and toss thoroughly.  Cook until the wine is all gone and the pasta is perfectly cooked. This should not be more than 5 or 6 minutes from the time you added the pasta to the wine.

5. Remove from heat and plate, garnishing with the fresh basil and parmigiano reggiano cheese.

You easily make this dish vegetarian by using one of the many fabulous spicy vegetarian chorizo substitutes. 

Hope you like it as much as I did!

Meyer Lemon Fresh Linguine

As I mentioned yesterday, I recently found some fantastic Meyer Lemons from a local orchard here in Northern California.  They've been endlessly inspiring, as well as delicious, and I fear that I've acquired a new food-addiction.  The lemons flavor is so wonderfully bright and sweet-tart that I'm using them all over the place.  This dish I created showcases their best flavors and textures in one healthy meal.  It's my "Meyer Lemon Fresh Linguine with Sun-Dried Tomatoes and Wild Mushrooms."

Last year, I did a post on my first-ever homemade pasta.  It was great, but I have to admit that this time surpassed my first round.  I've gotten better at forming, kneading and rolling out the dough so that this pasta was toothsome but so very delicate.  The Meyer Lemon add incredible depth and freshness; if it weren't so much work I'd make it once a week.  Alas, this is one dish that is honestly TRULY worth the effort.  For the pasta dough, I again used Mario Battali's recipe and added the Meyer Lemon Zest straight to the eggs in the well before mixing into the dough.  It worked perfectly.  The dough was very supple this time so I think I also got better with my hand-mixing and kneading.  My goal on the condiment for the pasta was to show-off the Meyer Lemon and pull in flavors that were still "Winter" in heartiness but light enough to not completely cloak the taste of the lemon.  I definitely succeeded!

Here's the recipe:

Ingredients:
Serves 4-6 depending on portion size (about 1 1/2 lb. dough)

For the dough:

3 1/2 cups all-purpose flour, plus extra for kneading
5 eggs
2 Meyer Lemons,  zested

Remaining ingredients:

3 T. extra virgin olive oil
1/2 tsp. anchovy paste
3 cloves garlic, minced
3 tsp. sun-dried tomatoes in oil, minced
1 small Italian hot long chili pepper in oil, minced
kosher salt to taste
ground black pepper to taste
4 oz. wild mushrooms (I used beautiful oyster and black trumpet mushrooms)
Juice from 2 Meyer Lemons zested for pasta dough (about 4 T.)
1 T. pasta water reserved after cooking
1/4 c. Asiago Cheese, grated

Method:

1. Prepare the pasta dough completely per recipe and instructions from Chef Batali. This time, I did all the mixing and kneading by hand instead of my Kitchen Aid. I only used that to roll and cut the dough.  It worked great!

2. Bring a large pasta pot full of water to a boil and salt generously.  Do not add the pasta until the sauce is nearly done since the pasta will only take about 2 minutes to cook.

3. Heat a large skillet over medium heat and add the olive oil.  When hot, add the anchovy paste to the pan and melt it gently.  Add the sun-dried tomatoes and red hot pepper.

4. Add the garlic, salt and pepper to taste.  Saute until the garlic is light brown. Turn down the heat to low and add the mushrooms.  Sweat them about 2 minutes until they start to soften then turn heat back to medium-high and sauté  about 4-6 minutes more.

5. Gently put the linguine in the boiling water when the mushrooms are about 2 minutes from being done. When done, drain the pasta and add directly to the skillet and add 1 T. pasta water.

6. Pour or squeeze the Meyer Lemon juice over the pasta and condiments in the skillet and toss very gently with tongs.  Incorporate all ingredients.

7. Remove the skillet from heat and serve the linguine.  Garnish with Asiago cheese and eat immediately!

After the paste is made, this is really very simple to make.  It's also spectacular.  If you don't want to make your own pasta, there are plenty of fresh varieties in most gourmet stores.  Just make sure to go for fresh with this dish and look for one that has lemon or another bright flavor such as herbs.  Enjoy!

Berkeley Pasta

Here it is, Scrumptious readers.  My first posting from sunny California.  I must confess, things are crazy and cooking isn't yet a priority in the getting-settled-madness.  Rather, working, looking for a home, logistical details, buying cars and opening bank accounts have trumped my creative culinary bone.  However, I did make it to the Berkeley Farmer's Market over the weekend and bought some absolutely delicious produce.  They were such sweet and well, TOMATO-Y, heirloom tomatoes.  That fresh-grown taste and smell that you can't find more than 12 hours off the vine... Paired with very delicate and pale summer squash, fresh baby onions, and handmade fresh Meyer Lemon pasta, this was a good introduction to many spectacular meals to come. Here's a look at my "Berkeley Pasta".

I didn't keep track of the recipe at all, but you get the idea.  Extra virgin olive oil, baby shallots, garlic, summer squash, heirloom tomatoes, basil, thyme, Meyer Lemon fresh linguine and lemon juice.  All grown, harvested and produced within 50 miles of Berkeley, CA.  Not a bad start....

Now, we're off for a 2-week vacation for scuba diving and finally some relaxation.... I will return to Scrumptious Street in October. Until then, happy cooking!

Scrumptious Garden Pesto Spaghetti

One of my favorite aspects of cooking is the improvisation and when I have fresh simple ingredients on hand, I am always putting a different twist on the classics.  My herb garden is growing wonderfully well, just like my tomato plant you all have heard about.  It's hard to keep up with the herbs sometimes, we are only two Scrumptious people after all.  So, this week I was faced with the realization that I needed to use a large amount of herbs fast, or some would start bolting.  What better way to use them and make a light and fresh summer meal than pesto pasta?  My "Scrumptious Garden Pesto Spaghetti" really hit the spot and helped me use the herbs before they were ruined. 

I know what a traditional pesto is, and this is not one.  But, it is mine, made from a variety of herbs grown from my own hand and care.  You can use any herbs you like to make a similarly creative and light meal. I really adore the Greek bush basil, it makes such an intense and bold flavor, with aromas of anise and warm spices in the leaves.   Also, this is the first I'd tried chives in a pesto and it was a wonderful addition with the gentle onion flavor.

Ingredients
Serves 2

1/2 lb. spaghetti
1/4 c. toasted pine nuts
2 cloves fresh garlic, peeled
2 oz. parmigiano reggiano, grated
2 c. chopped fresh herbs (I used bush basil, basil, oregano and chives)
1/2 c. extra virgin olive oil
1/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper

Method:

1. Bring a large pot of water to rolling boil.  Add kosher salt to the water and the pasta, making sure all is covered.  Reduce heat to medium-high and cook until al dente, 8-10 minutes.

2. In a food processor, add the pine nuts, garlic and parmigiano-reggiano.  Pulse until it's a chunky, crumbly consistency.  Add the fresh herbs and run until it's a thick paste.  Slowly drizzle in the olive oil until the paste smooths out and becomes like a thick sauce.  Season to taste with freshly ground pepper. 

3. When pasta is done, turn off burner, drain pasta and quickly return it back to the pan.  Pour in the pesto slowly and toss with tongs.  You will likely not use all the pesto, just pour and toss a bit at a time until you get a coverage you like.  Plate immediately and serve.

Dad Scrumptious Sea Scallop and Clam Tagliatelle

Mom and Dad Scrumptious came to visit over the recent long weekend here in the States and some of the best parts of their visit was tending my new herb garden -- it's growing so well especially with Mom's help -- replanting my spectacular tomato plant that already has doubled in size and has 7 gorgeous tomatoes already and doing homey chores and things around our apartment.  But, of course I love cooking and we all love eating so lots of food and delicious meals were happening at Scrumptious Street.

I would ask Dad to name an item he was craving or wanting and I'd cook a meal around it.  We had so much fun with this kind of secret ingredient meets mystery menu dinner.  Mom and Dad Scrumptious don't have access to spectacular seafood like we do in NYC so one night scallops were his ingredient of choice.  With that, I created a wonderful light and summery pasta with the freshest scallops and clams I could find.

And yes, I also used my own fresh herbs! I am LOVING the herb garden.  I walk out while taking a pause in cooking and snip, snip, I bring back the lovely goodness I need and never have to worry about using it all before it goes bad or loses its flavor.  What a terrific addition to my kitchen!

In this recipe I used white pepper instead of black pepper.  It has a gentler and subtler flavor which I really love with seafood in particular.  If you're in the habit of only using black pepper, give the white a try.  Also, the sauce is really very light and much more a condiment for the seafood and the pasta so make sure you use really good, fresh pasta, clams and scallops here.  The quality is very crucial to the taste of the dish.

As well, both of these seafood are extremely easy to overcook and as soon as they do, they are ruined and rubbery.  If you spend the money for fresh scallops and clams, make sure not to multi-task too much and really get them off the heat as soon as they are done -- which is under 5 minutes in both cases.  Here is my "Dad Scrumptious Sea Scallop and Clam Tagliatelle".

Ingredients

Serves 4
1 lb. fresh tagliatelle
2 tsp. kosher salt
1 spring onion
2 cloves garlic
1/4 c. extra virgin olive oil
1/2 lemon, squeezed for juice
1/2 c. dry white wine
2 tsp. lemon thyme, minced
1 T. lemon balm, minced
3/4 c. heavy cream
1 T. butter
16 large clams, scrubbed and rinsed
12 large sea scallops, rinsed
kosher salt to taste
freshly ground white pepper to taste

Method:

1. Bring a large pot of water to rolling boil and place a second large skillet on pan on stovetop and heat to medium high flame. 

2. Add the olive oil to the skillet and saute the onion and garlic until translucent, stirring frequently.  At this point, the water should be boiling so add 2 tsp. of kosher salt to the water and the fresh tagliatelli.  Swirl the paste to cover evenly with water.  If you're using dried pasta instead of fresh, put the pasta in the water before you start the sauce.  Dried tagliatelli will take about 8-10 minutes, whereas fresh pasta will take 3-5 minutes.

3. Squeeze the lemon juice into the skillet and add the white wine.  Add the clams and cover the pan. 

4.  Bring another skillet to high heat, add the butter and melt.  Pat the scallops dry with a paper towel, season with kosher salt and white ground pepper and place in the skillet.  Sear 2 minutes on the first side and flip.  Sear another 2 minutes on the second side and immediately remove the scallops from the heat.

5. At this point the pasta should be done and the clams should be done as well.  They are done when their shells are fully open and this should not be more than about 4-5 minutes.  Drain the pasta and add it to the skillet with the clams.  Toss gently with tongs and add the herbs and cream.  Toss again gently and remove from heat. Discard any clams that didn't fully open.  Serve immediately and place the seared scallops on top of the pasta and clams.

Mushroom and Brandy Manicotti

While I love traditional Italian food, I also enjoy creating new variations on standard classics.  Recently a dear friend was visiting and mentioned that he was interested in cooking more with liquor and alcohol.  A great discussion began and in the back of my mind I began creating this dish as we were talking.  Indeed manicotti is a classic dish, but this "Mushroom and Brandy Manicotti" is very different and loaded with flavor, earthy heartiness, bright colors and textures.

This dish is also very good for people who are lactose intolerant or the many people who simply don't like cheese.  I personally love many cheeses, but don't believe it has to be part of all Italian-American creations.  Sometimes, it's even more interesting to skip the cheese when you make a pasta dish al forno. 

A note on the recipe:  I always make my own tomato sauce, but did not keep track of the exact measurements for you.  Next time, I certainly will write it down.  I use fresh roma plum tomatoes that I've blanched and peeled, garlic, onions, extra virgin olive oil, fresh basil, fresh oregano and sometimes, a very small pinch of cloves.  Other times I'll add a carrot.  It's very basic but absolutely delicious when fresh. 

Ingredients:

Serves 4

1 package dried manicotti, cooked to package directions
3 c. fresh homemade tomato sauce with herbs
4 T. extra virgin olive oil
1/4 c. onion, chopped
4 c. fresh mushrooms such as shiitake, cremini or any others you like, chopped
1/2 tsp. fresh thyme, chopped
1/2 c. shelled hazelnuts, chopped
6 T. brandy
3 T. cream, half and half or plain yogurt (optional)
fresh basil, chopped

1. Preheat the oven to 375˚F.  Make the tomato sauce by sautéing onions, garlic, tomatoes and spices.  Add fresh herbs and remove from heat when tomatoes are fully cooked and broken down.

2. Bring a large pot of water to rolling boil, add salt and when boiling vigorously, gently add the manicotti pasta.  Cook to package instructions until al dente, about 6-8 minutes.  Drain the manicotti and lay out in a single layer on a flat baking sheet, separating so they don't touch.  Allow them to cool.

3. Put a  medium skillet on the stove and medium-high flame.  Add the olive oil and when hot, put in the garlic and onions,sautéing until the onions are transluscent.  Add the mushrooms and sauté until they are a deep golden brown color.  Add the thyme, and stir to incorporate.  Toss in the hazelnuts and stir another few seconds.  Pour in the brandy and stir.  Reduce the heat to medium and allow the liquid to cook into the mushrooms and reduce a little.  When the brandy is absorbed, add the cream, stir gently and remove from the heat.  Allow the mushroom mixture to cool enough to handle.

4. When mushrooms and manicotti are both cool, add about 1 1/2 c. tomato sauce to the bottom of a rectangular baking dish and spread evenly.  Pick up one manicotti and use a small teaspoon to stuff the manicotti from both ends with the mushroom mixture.  Be gentle, you don't want to tear the pasta.  Fill each pasta tube without overstuffing and lay them in a single layer along the bottom of the pan. 

5. Drizzle the rest of the tomato sauce over the top of the manicotti, sprinkle with a little fresh chopped basil and cover the dish with aluminum foil.  Bake in the center of the oven for 35 minutes.   Remove the aluminum foil from the dish and bake another 10 minutes.

6.  After about 45 minutes, remove the dish from the oven and let cool slightly, about 5 minutes.  Serve and enjoy immediately.

Fresh Fettuccine Part II: The Dish

This is part two of my first fresh pasta making experience, you can read about making the pasta dough in my previous post.

After all that hard work, I had built up an appetite and was famished!  I decided to give the fettuccine a light treatment because I really wanted to be able to taste the noodles to evaluate my performance and didn't want a heavy sauce to obscure the pasta.  Since pasta is so versatile, there are thousands of potential variations.  If you go to the trouble of making the fresh pasta, make sure you dress it well!

I had added freshly ground black pepper to my pasta dough so that it already had a little perky kick to it.  The weather in New York was unseasonably warm this weekend-- it felt like May! So, I was craving a spring-like treatment to complement the freshness of the pasta.  This recipe REALLY worked.  I was exhausted but so happy that it turned out great.

The arugula picks up and plays on the black pepper as I intended.  The red pepper flakes continue the theme with a little more zip and pop.  But, it's not fiery or hot at all, it's just got three kinds of peppery zing for depth.  I added tomatoes and lemons for acid to cut the bite and added porcini mushrooms for a little body and texture so it was a meal rather than a snack.  The lemon zest and parmigiano reggiano add salty and fresh touches. The pasta itself came out perfectly.  It was thin and delicate and softly structured.  I was shocked, given how much I struggled with the dough. I really thought it would be chewy and rubbery.  It was perfect ribbons that tasted so wholesome.  This recipe is really excellent.  I would be thrilled if you make (or buy) fresh fettuccine and let me know what you think of my "Black Pepper Fettucine with Lemon, Arugula and Porcini Mushrooms."

Buon appetito!

Ingredients:
Serves 4 as entree or 6 as appetizer

3/4 lb. fresh fettuccine
1 T. sea salt
1/4 c. dried porcini mushrooms
1/4 tsp. kosher salt
1/2 clove garlic
2 fresh, ripe plum tomatoes
1/2 small onion
1 clove garlic
1/4 tsp. red pepper flakes
1 lemon, zested and cut in half for juice
5-6 T. extra virgin olive oil, high quality
1/4 c. parmigiano reggiano cheese, grated
1/4 c. fresh arugula, washed and chopped

Method:
1. Bring a very large stockpot of water to boil on your largest burner.  Use the pasta insert if you have one. While you're waiting for the water, prep and chop all the vegetables.

2. Put the dried mushrooms, 1/2 clove garlic and kosher salt in a small bowl.  Bring a kettle of water to boil and pour over the mushrooms, letting them steep to re-constitute for about 20 minutes. Drain and chop the mushrooms roughly.

3. When water is up to boil and the mushrooms are done, in a large skillet heat 3 T. of olive oil on medium heat.  Saute the garlic and onion, stirring for a couple of minutes until the onion turns transluscent. Add the tomatoes, the red pepper flakes and squeeze the lemons and their juice into the skillet.  Stir thoroughly.

4. At this point, the water should be boiling.  Add the sea salt to the boiling water and gently lower the fresh fettuccine into the water.  It will only take 1-2 minutes and is done when the pasta begins floating toward the surface of the water.

5. Add the arugula and lemon zest to the sauce and stir to incorporate.  Cook another minute or so until the pasta is done.

6. Pull the pasta out of the water with the basket or strain it in a colander.  Add the pasta directly into the skillet with the sauce and toss gently with a pair of tongs.  Add the grated parmigiano reggiano cheese, sprinkle another 2-3 T. olive oil over the pasta and toss lightly.  Use the tongs to plate the pasta and garnish with a little more cheese, lemon zest and arugula if desired.  Serve immediately.

I hope you enjoy it as much as we did at Scrumptious Street!

Fresh Fettuccine Part I: The Pasta

Santa was very generous this year and brought me a stunning KitchenAid Professional Stand Mixer.  I
have always wanted one and am giddy at the new addition.  Santa's helper was also very well-coordinated and encouraged the addition of the pasta roller attachment set for the KitchenAid.  I am absolutely thrilled with these new tools, they're so beautiful and feel like such a luxury.  Today, I gave them their maiden voyage and decided it was time to try my hand at making fresh pasta.  I had never done it before today.

Wow, is it true that you learn from mistakes! It's been such a long time since I was trying something completely unchartered, that I felt uncertain as I progressed. I also have some very important things to convey to anyone else who may be toying with making fresh pasta for the first time.  Of course, I based my recipe on Mario Batali again, but had to improvise a little due to inexperience...

First, it takes time and is hard work! I expected two hours which was about right.  But, I completely ruined my first attempt, so altogether it took me about four hours because I had to do it twice.  (sheepish grin)

The next thing I'll say is that my first attempt failed for two reasons.  Firstly, my dough was too dry and even though I suspected it, I continued on anyway and persevered, figuring it would work itself out.  Secondly, I followed the booklet with the pasta attachments and actually used the mixer itself to work the dough the first 3 minutes.  I think that was a critical mistake and I could never get the dough right after that.  So, while I love, love LOVE my mixer I will boldly recommend this:  don't use it to actually mix pasta dough, unless you've done it so much you know how to get it perfect.  Even though I was wary of working the dough too much, I think there was just no way to avoid it.  I used the paddle hook beater for the first 30 seconds of mixing the eggs and flour and then switched to the dough hook and mixed for 3 minutes.  I then pulled it out and started kneading by hand.  I kneaded that dough for almost 15 minutes and it was still the consistency of old Play-Doh no matter what I did.  So, I chucked that batch in the trash and started over.  By hand.  Using the old-fashioned well method, much like I did recently for the gnocchi.  By the way, gnocchi dough is MUCH easier.  The pasta dough seems more temperamental and is also very intense work in the hands, wrists and forearms.  I feel like I developed carpal tunnel syndrome in just one afternoon! Also, I am about 5'5" tall and when I got tired, on my second batch the last 5 minutes of kneading, I actually pulled out a step-stool to get some leverage and body weight into the kneading of the dough.  Whew!

Chef Batali details his recipe in Molto Italiano, with a decent overview.  However, I found that if I literally interpreted his recipe, my dough still had problems.  So, I adjusted the recipe by including an additional egg and I added a little fresh black pepper for more flavor.  When it came to rolling out the dough, I followed his basic advice but again, developed my own rhythm and repetitions for sending the dough through the rollers.  Regardless, if you make fresh pasta for the first time prepare yourself for a learning experience and that you'll probably waste a lot of dough.  As you know I completely tossed out my first batch.  On my second batch, I probably only got good fettuccine out of half the dough and the other half either tore, wrinkled, ripped apart or had some other handling or thiness/rolling issue.  But, the next time I make it, I will definitely know what I'm doing!

So, in the successful method I did it all by hand up until rolling the dough and then, I used the stand mixer and pasta attachments.  The attachments are FANTASTIC, by the way.

Here was my recipe, adapted from Mario Batali.  Be aware that humidity, your flour and the size and quality of your eggs will really affect the dough.  You may use anywhere from 4-6 eggs for this, if you find the dough is still crumbling apart when you try to begin kneading with your hands, form the well again and add another egg.

Makes about 1 1/4 pounds of pasta

Ingredients:

3 1/2 cups all-purpose flour, plus extra for kneading
6 eggs (the recipe recommended 5, but my dough wouldn't hold together until I added a sixth egg)
2 T. freshly ground black pepper

Basic method:

1. Mound the flour in the center of a large wooden board or non-stick countertop.  Make a well in the center and crack the eggs into the well.  Beat the eggs together with a fork.  Add the black pepper to the eggs and beat with the fork again.  Now, begin to incorporate the flour, starting with the inner rim of the well.  As you pull more flour into the center well, keep pushing the flour up around the outside to retail the well shape.  Think of it as making a fortress and you're building from the inside.  When half the dough is incorporated the dough will begin to come together.  Start kneading the dough, using primarily the palms of your hands.  If the dough keeps breaking apart or flaking apart, you may need to add another egg.  If you do that, make a well again!  Beat the egg with a fork again, like the first time.  The well method is crucial to getting a little bit of the egg into the flour or dough at a time.  Thus, the reason I don't think a mixer can do it as good as the ol' hands. Once the dough is a cohesive mass, set the dough aside and scrape up and discard any dried bits of dough.

2. Lightly flour your work surface and continue kneading for at least 10 minutes, dusting the surface with a little bit of flour as necessary.  The dough should be pretty firm and elastic most of the time.  When you finally have it in one nice ball that is quite elastic, wrap the dough in plastic wrap and allow it to rest for 30 minutes at room temperature.  This resting is critical, when you unwrap it the dough will have softened and that is what you want.  Do not knead it back into tension before rolling out.  You need it somewhat soft. If after 30 minutes, it still feels very tight, cover again and wait another 15-20 minutes.

3. Cut the dough into 4 pieces and wrap three of them again in plastic. Flatten the piece of dough into a burger shape that is somewhat thicker in the middle and about 1/4 inch thick at the edges.

4. Set the flat pasta roller attachment to the widest setting and dust rollers with a little flour to make sure the dough won't stick. Do not use more flour as you go along unless you dough does stick.  If you use too much flour, the pasta will become too dry.  Fire up the mixer and get the rollers cranking and begin feeding the dough into the slot between the rollers. For me, it worked best to feed in the top with my left hand and catch the dough from the underside of the rollers in the palm my right hand.  Make sure you don't tear it and don't pull the dough through.  You also may have to pinch it at the top to get it thin enough to continue through the rollers.  Too thick and it'll go nowhere.

Fold the dough in thirds, flatten it with your palms and roll it out again.  Repeat this process 5 times, then set the rollers to the next-thinnest setting and repeat about 6 times again on that setting.  Here's another place I diverged from the recipe.  It encourages the folding between each repetition.  I found that my dough was destroyed by the time I got through to the thinnest settings if I folded so much.  So, after getting the hang of it, I settled on folding just the first couple times through and then every other time, it fit perfectly in the rollers and I just shipped it through each time.  You will have to experiment with your own rhythm and reps.  Also, as I fed the dough in the top once it started going I folded it over the backside of the attachment as you see in the photos.  This helped keep it aligned and "between the rails" if you will.  Otherwise, it would get crooked and then wrinkle and tear.

5. After the first two settings, switch to the third setting and roll the dough through three times, since it's getting more delicate.  If the pasta sheet becomes too long to work with easily, cut it in half width-wise and continue rolling the pieces.  They will still work out to 10-12 inches long if your dough is right.  Roll the dough out through the progressively thinner settings without folding, until you have reached the thinnest or next-to-thinnest setting.  Support the sheets from underneath and let them lay along your forearm from elbow to wrist.  (This was my own discovery and worked like a charm, especially for those of us with small hands and arms. I am no Mario Batali!!!)

6. Trim the dough sheets to have even, uniform edges and let them dry on cooling racks or over the back of chairs, aerating the sheets as they dry.  Continue the steps above for the remaining three quadrants of dough that you originally divided.

7. When the dough is all rolled and dried, attach the fettuccine cutter attachment to your mixer and send each sheet through the cutter, catching it delicately with one hand as you feed it through with the other. Again, let the uncut portion lie over the back of the attachment for alignment and less pressure on the dough. If you don't have the cutter attachment, you can brush your sheets of pasta lightly with flour, roll them up and use a sharp knife to cut them into 1/4 inch wide strips.

 

8. After all the pasta has been cut, spread it out on the racks to dry a little more and gently bend them into a u-shape so that when you cook them, they don't snap in half. 

It a was tiring and fascinating experience, I haven't learned so much from trial and error in the kitchen in a very long time. But, ultimately, it was so much fun!  Sitting here tonight, however, my forearms and wrists are positively aching.  No wonder those Italian women have such thick and strong forearms!

Next post, I'll show you how I cooked the pasta...it was worth ALL the work and turned out exquisitely.

 

Squash Lasagne with Sage and Walnut Pesto and Pomegranate Cheese Sauce

After the kabocha squash cheesecake I made recently, I still had a large amount of squash purée left.  The squash works so well with warm winter spices, that I decided to work in the same spiciness but combine with a creamy and light taste as well.  I decided to create a new lasagne.

Knowing I had a stunning new food processor in my kitchen, I worked out the layers on my way home, thinking of new techniques I could try.  I think the squash not only goes well with nutmeg and cinnamon, but also sage.  But, I didn't want to purée the sage in with the squash, thinking that would lose the sage flavor too much.  What I worked out is a pesto-style layer using walnuts and sage instead of the traditional basil and pine nuts.  Lastly, knowing I wanted something cheesy and creamy but still looking for a little tartness or acidity to balance all the flavors, I decided I'd try out a mascarpone and ricotta cheese sauce spiked with pomegranate juice.  Thus, my "Kabocha Squash Lasagne with Walnut-Sage Pesto and Pomegranate Cheese Sauce" was invented.

I already described in my cheesecake posting how to roast and purée the kabocha squash, so please check there for details.  I simply had covered in foil, roasted in the oven for an hour.  I pulled the halves out and then needed to peel each half.  I used my favorite knife to do it, but the skin is thin enough a vegetable peeler would work.  I then purée the squash in batches in my new food processor.  After the cheesecake I had just enough puree left over for this lasagne recipe.

A note on the yield here:  I didn't use a 9x13 typical lasagne pan, I used a square 9x9 baking pan (the classic brownie pan) since I didn't want to have be eating lasagne for a week.  It was perfect to serve 4-6 people.

Ingredients:
Serves 4-6

1 package oven-ready lasagna noodles

For the squash puree layer
2 1/2 c. kabocha squash puree
1 tsp. freshly ground ginger root
1/4 tsp. freshly ground nutmeg
1/4 tsp. ground cinammon
1/8 tsp. kosher salt

For the "pesto" layer
2 small shallots
1/2 c. loosely packed fresh sage leaves
3/4 cup raw, shelled walnuts
kosher salt to taste
freshly ground black pepper to taste
1/4 c. extra virgin olive oil plus a little more

For the cheese layer
8 oz. softened mascarpone cheese
5 oz. fresh ricotta cheese (fat-free is fine)
6 T. pomegranate juice
1/4 tsp. kosher salt

Method:
Roast, peel and purée the kabocha squash and add the measured amount to a medium bowl.  Add in the freshly ground ginger root, nutmeg and cinnamon.  Stir with a wooden spoon until ingredients are evenly distributed.  Set aside.  Preheat oven to 375˚ F or turn it up from roasting before if you've just made the squash.

In the food processor fitted with the metal blade, combine the shallots, sage, and walnuts and pulse gently until all ingredients are chopped fairly well and beginning to incorporate.  Add a little freshly ground black pepper and small pinch kosher salt.  Taste to ensure it is good, but not too salty as the olive oil will also add a little saltiness.  Pulse again until all the ingredients are incorporated.  Gently stream in the olive oil, with the processor going continuously.  When you have a nice, thick paste, stop.  You may use a little less or more olive oil than listed here.  Just add until the point that the pesto starts coming together, before it would go into a little ball.  Remove bowl and blade from processor and set aside.

In a medium non-reactive bowl combine the cheeses and stir thoroughly.  Add the pomegranate juice and stir again.  The cheese should be light purple or lavender color.  Taste and add the kosher salt, you may desire a little less or more depending on your preference.

Butter your 9x9" baking pan. Spread a small, thin even layer of the squash into the bottom of the pan.  Spread a layer of the lasagne noodles into the pan.  I used three along the pan and then cracked a fourth in half and used the half for the little space at the top. This will depend on the size and shape of your noodles.  Just cover the pan evenly with noodles.  Spread half of your remaining squash on top of the noodles.  Spread the cheese on top of the squash layer.  Add another layer of noodles.  Gently press down on the lasagne at this point, compressing the layers a little bit and squeezing out any air.  Next, spread the pesto layer on the noodles with a rubber spatula and spread out the layer with your fingers, pressing evenly across the dish to make it a uniform layer.  I found my hands worked best at this stage.  Spread another layer of the squash next.  Then, another layer of noodles.   Finish with a layer of the pomegranate cheese on top.

Cover the lasagne and bake about 45 minutes in the oven.  Remove the foil and let bake another 5-10 minutes until the top is light golden brown. Remove the lasagne from the oven and let cool slightly, about 10 minutes.  Cut with a sharp serrated knife and serve. 

Mushroom Bucatini that is not alla "Carbonara"

Disclaimer: Italian cuisine purists, I know this is NOT A REAL CARBONARA. 

But, I borrowed the technique of using raw eggs and want you to know that right up front.  So, until I think of a better name, this stays a little tongue-in-cheek.

Early October always makes me crave Italy and comfort food that is hearty, full of herbs and mushrooms with a thick bucatini pasta. Since I can't hop over this year, I recently created something that suited my craving and included porcini mushrooms and typical autumn herbs.  Just a couple of days after I made this, two great bloggers went on mushroom foraging excursions in their respective regions of Italy.  Yes, I lived vicariously through them but after I'd already made my own dish so the envy wasn't completely overwhelming.  This time of year certainly inspires mushroom fervor in all of us who love the fungus and the famous way Italians celebrate them.  I like to join in the fun, if only in my mind and from another continent.  Here's my second major disclaimer:  NOTHING compares with wild porcini mushrooms.  I think I have heard and read nearly all major chefs say at some point that dried and then re-constituted porcinis are an acceptable substitute.  They are not.  However, when you want some of the porcini flavor and you can't get them right out of the ground, at least you can taste and dream.  (Ever notice how hard it can be to truly imagine a flavor?)  The texture, however, is not even close. And, that makes me sad.  So, rather than using only porcinis and being sad, I used mostly criminis and some porcinis for the hint of flavor and ended up being very happy with the result.  The third major disclaimer in this post is that I'm really mixing things up and using a hungarian spice in an  Italian-style dish.  Therefore, nothing about this is purely Italian and it's all in the spirit of good, creative fun with scrumptious results.

Ingredients:
Serves 2

2 handfulls of bucatini pasta (no more than 1/4 of the pack)
1 tsp sea salt or to taste as you prefer
1 egg, whisked
2 pats unsalted butter
3 T extra virgin olive oil
3 cups fresh crimini mushrooms
2 medium shallots finely chopped
1 clove garlic finely sliced
2 T dried porcini mushrooms, re-consituted (unless you have fresh!!) reserve and strain the water
1 T tomato paste
1 fire-roasted red pepper (fresh or jarred will work)
1/2 tsp sweet hungarian paprika
1/4 cup dry red wine
1/4 porcini water
2 T fresh oregano, minced
2 tsp fresh chives, minced
2 tsp fresh rosemary, minced
1/2 cup cream
sea salt to taste
freshly ground black pepper to taste
parmigiano reggiano and oregano for garnish

Method:

1. First, you need to re-constitute the dried porcinis. Bring a tea-kettle to boil and put the mushrooms in a bowl and pour the water over the mushrooms.  Let steep for at least 20 minutes, until mushrooms are soft.  Remove mushrooms and chop. Strain the porcini water with a fine sieve or tea bag strainer and reserve the porcini water. 

2. Bring a large heavy-bottomed pot of water to boil.  Add sea salt and pasta to the water.  Turn heat down to medium-low and let simmer.

3. While pasta is cooking, prepare the sauce.  Heat a large skillet and the extra virgin olive oil on high and add the crimini mushrooms.  Sautee until the mushrooms are a deep dark brown color.  Add the shallots and sautee 1-2 minutes.  Season with sea salt and pepper to taste.  Next, add the paprika, reduce heat to low and cook another 2 minutes.  Add the tomato paste and herbs and mix thoroughly in the pan.  Add wine and the porcini water, reduce heat to low simmer and cook until you have a thick, hearty sauce.  Just before your pasta is at the al dente point, add the roasted red pepper and stir into the sauce.

4. When pasta is done, drain and let cool a few seconds.  Do not rinse with water.  Put the plain pasta back into the large pot you cooked it in and then quickly add the whisked egg and fold into the pasta with large tongs to incorporate and cook the egg.  Add the butter and fold again. You will see it become rich and creamy in texture. 

5. Quickly add the cream to the mushroom sauce and stir.  Then, dump the pasta into the large skillet and toss thoroughly using your tongs to cover the noodles well without breaking the pasta.  Put pasta in a large dish or bowl, garnish with grated parmigiano reggiano and fresh oregano and serve.

Buon Appetito!