Scrumptious Street

Baby Artichoke and Pepperoncini Soup

I'm still on my "thrilled to live in Artichoke-land bender" and am continuing to make good on my promises to prepare them any way I can imagine.  This one was inspired by Duarte's Tavern in Pescadero, CA and their famous and fantastic artichoke soup.  I tried to create a recipe that I would guess (but I don't know for sure) is pretty close to Duarte's and then merged that with my own favorite party dip.   My delicious and peppery "Baby Artichoke and Pepperoncini Soup" was the delightful result.

The pepperoncini are the star of this soup and really make it something unique and surprising because of the spice and tang they contribute.  The soup isn't hot, but definitely peppery and lemony.  It's a very refreshing taste, even when served hot and steaming.  Most artichoke soups are cream-based and while I often enjoy them, I find creamy soups in the heat of summer are a little too decadent.  So, this one is a very light and healthy recipe as well.  Great news if you're more a nibbler in the summer months!  It would also be a yummy first course at a dinner party.  Something to get the taste buds firing and ready for action but also interesting enough that no one will forget it!

Again, freshness is very important here and Baby Artichokes are quite polarizing.  They can either be terrific or awful and you need to use the terrific ones here to make sure the texture of the soup is silky rather than stringy. Mine came from a wonderful local farmer's market, of course.  Also, make sure to trim the baby artichokes all the way down to the very light yellow hearts and leaves.  If you retain any outer leaves that are too fibrous and would need to have the flesh scraped with your teeth like full-size artichokes, then remove those tougher leaves and set aside and do not puree them in the food processor.  You can save them for a sandwich or just nibble on them while you prepare the soup.  But, it's imperative that you only use the tenderest of leaves and inner hearts. Baby artichokes should have an edible choke; they aren't hairy and prickly like mature artichokes. (After all, they are a thistle!!) Before pureeing, just make sure to slice the artichokes in half and double-check the chokes and soft and smooth. 

Here's my recipe, feel free to improvise of course!

Ingredients
Serves 2-4 depending whether as main course or appetizer

16 baby artichokes, trimmed down to tender leaves and hearts and dropped in acidulated water
3/4 tsp. kosher salt
1/2 tsp. black pepper
2 cloves garlic, peeled and smashed
6 T. extra virgin olive oil, divided
1 lemon; half sliced and half juiced
1 medium shallot, peeled and chopped
3 large pickled pepperoncinis, chopped and stems removed
2-3 cups water

Method:
1. Fill a large pot with 2 inches of water and add 1/2 tsp. kosher salt, 1/4 tsp. black pepper, the garlic, 2 T. olive oil and the lemon slices.  Place a heat-proof footed colander or steamer basket inside the pot and put the trimmed baby artichokes inside.  Turn the heat on to medium high and bring the water up to a gentle boil.  Place a lid over the colander and pot and steam the artichokes for 15-18 minutes until fork-tender. When ready, remove the colander and the artichokes and slice each artichoke in half, removing any tough outer leaves and checking the choke is soft and edible.  Remove the lemon slices and reserve the artichoke stock.

2. In a food processor, pulse the artichokes until a nice paste begins to form.  Add in the shallots, the garlic from the cooking stock and the pepperoncini and pulse again to mix.  Add another 1/2 tsp. kosher salt, 1/4 tsp. black pepper and the half-lemon juice (about 2 T.).  Puree until very smooth.  Slowly drizzle in the remaining 4 T. olive oil and puree until smooth and rustic, but free of lumps or fibers.

3. Transfer the artichoke and pepper base to a large saucepan or medium stockpot and heat on medium low.  Add the reserved artichoke stock and another 1-2 cups water, depending on desired thickness.  Taste and season accordingly.  Slowly bring the soup up to steaming, but not boiling.  Remove from heat immediately.

4.  Garnish with julienned artichoke leaves and a slice of fresh goat cheese.

Red Snapper Stew

Happy New Year everyone!  I do apologize for the long break I've taken the past few weeks.  Scrumptious Street became a houseful of family, holiday cheer and good raucous fun.  Unfortunately, that left me no time for blogging.  Mr. Scrumptious and I are a family of two.  The past month we more than tripled to a household of 7! Let me say that I have renewed respect and admiration for any and all parents! Cooking for three children is definitely...different than what I'm used to.

This recipe started out as one of those, "let's clean out the refrigerator" dinners but it turned into something very special and very tasty, so I must share it with you.  Even though the photo doesn't look like the stew is unique, believe me, it is.  I'll tell you why in a moment.  But here, is my "Red Snapper Stew".

The key to this stew is the base.  Rather than a traditional chicken stock or vegetable stock, I used my homemade artichoke braising liquid as the stock base.   It rocked! I cannot describe how delicious and full of flavor this stew was because of that choice.  And, the woody, slightly tangy flavor was a perfect pairing with the hearty and rich flesh of Red Snapper.  You may wonder how in the world did I get artichoke stock.  Well, one thing I haven't told you all on this blog is that when I cook, I almost never throw anything away that I know is loaded with flavor.  So, as many of you know, I love artichokes and have been cooking them a lot since we moved to the Artichoke Capital of the World.  Over the holidays, I made some wonderful braised artichokes and reserved all of the cooking liquid.  It came in perfectly handy when the skies of Northern California showed us what winter means here.  Cold, hungry and needing something comforting, I pulled out the artichoke broth, removed the bay leaf and rummaged in the fridge for all the vegetables needing to be used.  With the fresh red snapper, this stew just came alive and was really terrific.  Another special note here: I had an ear of corn left-over that had been grilled.  Yes, grilling in December.  California is wonderful that way, Old Man Winter seems to suffer from dissociative identity disorder... 

The smoky flavor of the grilled corn was also another winner.  So much, that I would suggest when you make this to grill any vegetables in advance.  You don't have to use what I did, just use whatever you've got on hand.  But, try to use a grill pan or an open flame to impart a charred flavor to at least one or two of the "sweet" vegetables you may use.  It was a huge part to why this stew turned into something worthy of posting on this blog.  I also made the conscious choice to use fire-roasted diced tomatoes.  Once I had the smoky theme going, I wanted to build on it.  You can see the black charred flakes in the photo.  It really was part of the soup's tripartite foundation of artichoke flavor, smokiness and hearty fish.  Fire-roasted red pepper would also be great in this stew.  We loved it and hope you do too.  Next time you make artichokes, SAVE THAT BROTH.

Ingredient
Serves 4

3 T. extra virgin olive oil
1 small white potato, peeled and medium-diced
1/2 head cauliflower florets, cleaned and medium-diced
2 carrots, peeled and medium-diced
1 cup fresh green beans, chopped
1 ear fresh corn, grilled if possible, kernels shaved off (about 1/2 cup)
1/2 tsp. kosher salt or to taste
1/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper or to taste
2 leeks, cleaned and sliced
2 shallots, peeled and medium-diced
1/2 c. dry white wine
1/4 tsp. fresh tarragon, chopped
4 sprigs fresh thyme leaves
2 fresh sage leaves, chopped
1/2 tsp. dried oregano
5 cups artichoke braising broth remove the bay leaf (or homemade vegetable or fish stock as substitute)
1 14.5 oz. can of diced fire-roasted tomatoes
2 red snapper fillets, roughly chopped

Method:

1. Make vegetable stock or use existing artichoke braising liquid that you've saved.  Wash and prep all vegetables and fish.

2. Heat a large enameled cast-iron dutch oven or your favorite soup stock pot on medium-high.  Add the olive oil and when sizzling hot, sauté the cauliflower, potato, carrots, corn and green beans.  Add the salt and pepper. After 2-3 minutes, add the leeks and shallots and sauté for 5-7 minutes, until the vegetables begin to get tender and the shallots are translucent and softening.

3. Add the wine and herbs and stir thoroughly.  Let the wine cook and reduce by about half to fully season the vegetables. Add the artichoke broth when vegetables are tender and the wine has reduced and bring stew to a boil.  Reduce heat to a simmer, cover the pot and let cook undisturbed for 10 minutes.

4. Add the fire-roasted tomatoes to the stew, stir thoroughly and taste, checking seasoning and adjusting as necessary.  Cover the pot and simmer for 15 minutes more.

5. Add the red snapper and cook until the fish is just white, opaque, tender and flaky.  If the fish is fresh and your stew is hot, this should only take between 3-4 minutes.  (You do not want to overcook the fish or it will turn a stiff and rubbery texture, so don't walk away to do something else!)  Serve immediately and enjoy with a hearty crusty bread.

Goodbye, Winter! Minestrone

I think, alas, it might finally be time for Spring in New York.  It's been a wild ride, this winter, and I am fully embracing the rainy season that carries the sunshine on its heels.  I'm saying farewell to winter, and the last of the hearty and comforting soups of this season with my Minestrone.

Minestrone, can be boring, delightful or surprising.  One of the great things about it is that it's simple, but we get out of it exactly what we put into it.  With love, attention, fresh ingredients and showers of flavor with sprinkles of seasoning it can be a great transition meal.  The one that carries us from April showers into May flowers, heats us up after a walk through the rain but isn't so heavy that it lulls us into the winter drag. 

From here on out, my soups will be bright, fresh and light, so use this one on a rainy day or if you're in the Southern Hemisphere like many of my lovely readers, then here's a great start on your winter soups!

Me? I'm ready for the sun on my face, flowers in my pot, herbs in my planter and delicate chilled soups.  Here's my recipe for "Seasons Changing Minestrone."

Ingredients:
Serves 8

1/4 c. extra virgin olive oil
2 spanish onions, diced
2 leeks, white parts only, rinsed and sliced
2 carrots, diced
2 ribs celery, diced
2 waxy potatoes, peeled and diced
2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
2 sprigs thyme, leaves minced
1 sprig rosemary, minced
1 bay leaf
1/2 lb. red cabbage, chopped
1/2 lb. swiss chard, chopped and thick stems removed
8 oz. savoy cabbage, chopped
1/2 c. dry white wine
2 T. tomato paste
3/4 c. cannellini beans, rinsed and drained (either canned or soaked overnight and cooked)
1/2 can peeled Italian tomatoes and juice
1 leftover parmesan cheese rind
1 c. tubettini or other small pasta
1/2 lemon

Method:
1. Take out a large, heavy-bottomed stockpot or enameled cast iron pot and heat the olive oil over medium heat until shimmering.  Add the onions, leeks, carrots, celery, potatoes, garlic and herbs and cook stirring occasionally, until the vegetables start to soften.  About 5 minutes.  Add the cabbages and cook, pour in the white wine, stir in the tomato paste, season with salt and pepper and cook until cabbages have softened and wilted, about 10 minutes.  Reduce heat to low and cook another 10 minutes.

2. Add the cannellini beans, tomatoes and parmesan rind.  Add enough water to cover the vegetables by about 2 inches.  Bring to a boil, then lower the heat, cover and simmer about 35 minutes.

3. Add the pasta, stir to incorporate, cover and let simmer another 7-8 minutes. 

4. Turn off heat after soup has cooked and pasta is done.  Squeeze 1/2 lemon directly into pot and stir.  Ladle the soup into large bowls, serve with a crusty bread and enjoy!

Vegetarian and Bugs Bunny Soup

This soup is not your typical hearty winter stew, thick and creamy soup or stick-to-your-ribs fare.  It's a vegetarian's delight and excellent choice when your meal will gradually work to heavier dishes.  Bugs Bunny would like it.  If you like curried flavors and interesting twists on familiar ingredients, you will also like it.  If you want a chunky soup that eats like a meal this one won't fit the bill.  However, if you're serving four courses, want to break up monotony or have a vegetarian at the table who is sick of compromising on flavor and depth, this is the soup to serve.  It's my "Roasted and Curried Carrot, Ginger and Fennel Soup". 

I made this soup as an exercise in utility, usage of existing ingredients at home and simplicity turned unique.  The roasting of the vegetables in advance really develops the flavors and intensifies the vegetal taste.  This aspect is not for everyone.  If you're a grazer who likes raw veggies too, this will work well for you.  If Irish Stew is your version of soup heaven, I won't be offended if you skip this one.  The carrots are sweet and intense, the fennel also becomes sweet but delicate and the garlic adds a roasted almost nutty flavor.  The spices perk it up without dominating and the coconut milk smooth and balance the result to a pleasing flavor.  One note: make sure you use low-sodium broth here.  If you don't you may not need any salt at all to finish it off.

Ingredients:
Serves 4 as an appetizer or first course

2 1/2 c. fresh carrots, shredded
1/2 c. fresh fennel, shredded
2 whole cloves garlic with skins on
3 T. extra virgin olive oil
1 tsp. ground cumin
1/4 tsp. kosher salt depending on broth (use with low-sodium or omit with regular)
2 tsp. fresh ginger, grated
1 tsp. ground coriander
3 1/2 c. low-sodium vegetable stock
black pepper and possibly salt, to taste
1/2 c. coconut milk

Method:
1. Preheat oven to 425˚Farenheit.  Shred the carrots and fennel using either a box grater or a food processor.  I used my Cuisinart.  It rocks! (But not literally on the countertop, it's very stable.)

2. Spread the carrots, fennel and two cloves of whole garlic on a rimmed baking sheet into an even and single layer.  Drizzle with the olive oil, sprinkle with cumin and kosher salt depending on the broth you intend to use.

3. When oven is preheated, place the baking sheet in the center of the oven and roast the vegetables and spices for 15 minutes.  Make sure not to let them go dark brown or black.  You should pull them out just after your home has this incredible aroma of curried spices and the vegetables are soft and very lightly caramelized.

4. Remove the vegetables from the oven and let cool about 5 minutes.  When cool enough to touch, squeeze the garlic cloves from their skins and mash with a fork gently.

5.  Add the roasted vegetables including garlic and spices to a food processor fitted with the metal chopping blade.  (You could also use an immersion blender but it would be best to put the vegetables in your soup pan, add the liquids and then blend.)  Pulse the food processor to puree the vegetables well.  Add the ginger, ground coriander and 2 1/2 c. vegetable stock to food processor.  Fit on the lid and switch to "on" pureeing until the vegetables and stock make a fine puree.  You could also strain through a strainer or chinois if you desire, for a very elegant texture, but I let mine tend toward rustic.

6. Pour the puree into a sauce/soup pan and turn on medium-low flame on the stovetop.  Gently heat the base until steaming and hot but not bubbling, about 10 minutes, stirring at least once every minute or so.  Add the remaining cup of vegetable stock and heat again to steaming, another 3-4 minutes, and stir again.  Taste and season with kosher salt and black pepper as desired.  When ready, add in the coconut milk and stir to incorporate.  Bring back up to steaming, another 2-3 minutes and then immediately remove from heat and serve.

This would be excellent followed by a hearty lamb or beef dish, maybe some homemade spaetzle too?

That's all folks!

Soup from Mr. Scrumptious' Childhood

When Mr. Scrumptious and I first got married, he told me about his wonderful childhood friend whose parents were Greek.  Every Sunday afternoon their family would have a delicious soup and Mr. Scrumptious loved it so much he'd magically appear at their home Sunday evening around dinner time.  He described it as a very basic soup with leftover roasted chicken, rice, broth and lemon with a few light spices.  He explained its simple delicacy and creaminess.  I did a little research and a little improvisation and seem to have re-captured that soup perfectly in my own recipe.  According to him, it's just as he remembers and every once in a while (although not every Sunday) the craving hits.  Here is my "Greek Chicken and Lemon Soup". 

Ingredients:
Serves 4

4 cups chicken stock (homemade if possible)
2 T. fresh lemon juice
¼ tsp. lemon zest
½ cup rice already cooked
½ cup cooked chicken, left-over roasted chicken is best
4 large separated egg yolks – slightly beaten
Black pepper, freshly ground to taste
Nutmeg, freshly ground to taste

Directions:
1. Separate the egg yolks from the whites and put in a small dish.  Whisk gently or beat with a fork.  Cut the leftover chicken into small pieces.

2. Heat stock in 2qt. saucepan until steaming. Homemade chicken stock is best but if you don't have it, make sure to use fresh stock or broth. (Do NOT use bouillon or mixes.) Stir in the lemon juice and zest.  Add the rice and chicken and heat. 

3. Whisk ¼ cup of stock into the egg yolks to temper then quickly whisk mixture back into the stock on the stove.  Heat gently, stirring occasionally, until steaming, about 2-3 minutes.

4. Pour into serving bowls and sprinkle with pepper and nutmeg if desired.  I added parsley here for the photos but I don't usually include it in the recipe.

Enjoy this one on a cold winter's day, or when you're feeling under the weather for maximum delight!  If anyone out there is Greek, I'd like to know how close my version is to an authentic recipe.

Scrumptious Take on Curry Laksa

Mr. Scrumptious and I honeymooned in the amazing Borneo and Malaysia more than three years ago and recently I was craving the fiery and flavorful noodle soup so common there.  Curry Laksa is a traditional chicken curry noodle soup and I wanted to throw together my own simplified version of it. 

While it doesn't look incredible in these photos, the flavors are so intense and memorable that I wanted to share it with all of you.  For a cold winter's night, it will heat up your mouth and remind your tastebuds that an adventurous palate makes life endlessly interesting.  The dish is hot and hearty, creamy and slightly sweet from coconut milk.  Yes, there are a lot of ingredients, but if you get them all measured and prepared efficiently then the actual cooking only takes a few minutes.  There are several things I omitted from the traditional recipe due to the fact that I was cooking from my pantry and hadn't shopped beforehand.  Laska is quite regional and varies depending on exactly  where you are, but usually it includes a paste made of brine shrimp, several varieties of chiles and kasturi limes.  I omitted the shrimp paste completely and worked from available red chiles and regular limes.  Also, it's usually made with bone-in chicken thighs but I used chicken breasts here.  If you use the bone-in thighs, leave the skin on and cook about 40 minutes on step 3.  It gives a much richer, more hearty and deeper flavor if you use the chicken thighs.

Ingredients
Serves 4 as a main course

3 T. coriander seeds
1 tsp. cumin seeds
1/2 tsp. fennel seeds
2 whole cloves
10 black peppercorns
1/4 tsp. ground turmeric
2-4 small dried red chiles
3 shallots, coarsely chopped
1/2 c. water
4 T. peanut oil
1 cinammon stick piece about 1/2" long
2 stalks of fresh lemongrass
2 medium boneless, skinless chicken breasts cut into rough chunks
3 c. water
1 1/2 c. unsweetened coconut milk
2 tsp. sugar
1 3/4 tsp. kosher salt
2 cups bean sprouts
8 oz. Chinese egg noodles, uncooked
1-2 fresh limes
sprigs of mint

Method:
1. Put the coriander, cumin, fennel, cloves, peppercorns, turmeric and chiles in a small food processor.  Pulse until the spices are a fine powder, making sure there are no large pieces of whole spices.  Next, add the shallots and 1/2 c. water to the spice powder.  Pulse until you have a chunky but smooth paste.  Set aside.

2. Heat the oil in a 4-quart saucepan or soup pot over medium-low heat.  When the oil is hot, add the cinammon stick and stir about 30 seconds, until you smell its aroma.  Add the ground paste and saute and then reduce heat slightly to prevent scorching.  Stir frequently, cooking until the shallots become transluscent and seem to melt a little.  Add the lemongrass and chicken and stir well to combine with the flavoring paste and saute, stirring often, until the chicken is golden.  About 5 minutes.

3. Add the water, coconut milk, sugar and salt and stir well.  Cook gently another few minutes, until the chicken is cooked through.

4.  Meanwhile, fill a saucepan with water and bring to a boil.  Add the bean sprouts and blanch until they just start to soften, no more than 20 seconds.  Remove with a spider or slotted spoon and let the sprouts cool in a colander.  Bring the water back up to a boil and add the noodles, cooking about 3-5 minutes and drain.

5. To serve, divide the bean sprouts between the four bowls and place in the bottom of the bowl.  Follow with the noodles, in a mound over the sprouts.  Ladle the chicken curry over the noodles.  Garnish with additional chile if desired, lime and mint sprigs.  Squeeze the lime over the noodles and eat promptly.

Scrumptious Vegetarian.... Chili?? Stew??

FINALLY winter came to New York! You may remember from my post a while ago, that I love winter and one main reason is all the hearty soups and stews that go along with it.  Well, it's been like Spring the past two months here, just like so many other places in the world.  At last, Old Man Winter came a knockin'.  And what did I do?  Whipped up a pot of my very most delicious vegetarian chili.

The hesitation in the title is a tip of my virtual hat to the fabulous Homesick Texan, a great blogger and personal acquaintance, who vehemently believed that anything with beans is not "chili". To Texans, that has a very significant meaning and the rest of us who taint it with other stuff are committing some form of sacrilege.  Well, I saw the great Homesick Texan in person this week and she has smudged the lines a bit to make way for the rest of us and after getting her official permission I feel I can now continue calling it my "Scrumptious Vegetarian Chili". 

No meat, no slurry, no pasta for you Cincinnati kids.  Sorry, purists, but this is all I have ever called it and it's my very own, nothing regional about it.  If you all would like to participate in renaming my dish to something other than vegetarian chili, I'm all for it.  Put your name for my stew in the comments and I'll send the best enry a little gift of some kind.  I promise.

I like my chili hot.  Damn hot.  Especially in the cold winter.  Which it wasn't until this week, when it finally hit below 20˚Farenheit. So, this recipe carries a decent level of incindiary properties.  If you don't like it spicy, cut back at least half on the chile and peppers.  If you like it mild, make minestrone cut back even more.  You can substitute dried beans for the canned ones here.  It's been my method for years due to ease and fun, but you can go either route.  I like my chili thick and hearty, so unless you're cooking the chili all day in a crock pot, the dried beans take too long to break down.  Not feasible on a weeknight for me.

Happy Winter!

Ingredients:
Serves 6-8

3 T. extra virgin olive oil
1 medium spanish onion, diced
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 small or 1 medium fresh carrots, peeled and diced
1 jalapeno pepper, finely diced
4 oz. cremini mushrooms, chopped
2 oz. 70% cacao bittersweet chocolate
1/2 tsp. kosher salt
1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
1/4 tsp. red chile pepper flakes
1/2 tsp. oregano
1/4 tsp. cayenne pepper
3 bay leaves
1/2 tsp. chili powder
2 chipotle chiles en adobo
28 oz. can fire-roasted diced tomatoes
19 oz. can black beans
19 oz. can dark red kidney beans
15 oz. white navy or cannelini beans
1 1/2 T. dark brown molasses sugar
1/2 c. water

Method:

1. Chop all the vegetables and measure out all the dry ingredients.  Open all the cans.  Dump all the canned beans in a colander and rinse well.  You don't want to retain any syrup in the beans.

2. Heat a large heavy bottomed pot, preferably enameled cast iron, on medium heat and add the olive oil. 

3. When the oil is hot but not smoking, add the onion, garlic and carrot and saute for a few minutes, until the onion is translucent and the garlic is golden but not dark brown.  Lower the heat to medium. 

4. Begin adding each of the ingredients, tasting and layering the flavors as you go.  Add the jalapeno pepper, cremini mushrooms and stir to incorporate.  Add the bittersweet chocolate and stir until it's fully melted and incorporated.  Add the kosher salt, black pepper, red chili pepper flakes, oregano, cayenne pepper, bay leaves, chili powder, chipotle chiles and stir. Add the dark brown molasses sugar.  Add the can of diced tomatoes and stir.  Add all the rinsed beans.

5. Add the water.  Raise the flame to medium-high and stir well. Bring the soup up to a gentle boil.

6. Reduce the heat to low, replace the heavy lid on your pot and simmer for 45 minutes to 1 hour. This is what turns it from soup to a thick and hearty stew.  Be patient, wait for it to get thick and taste every 15 minutes so you can adjust if necessary. If you find it's going too hot, add a little bit of sugar.

7. Take two capsules of Beano.  TRUST ME.  DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP IF YOU'RE GOING TO BE NEAR OTHER PEOPLE FOR THE NEXT 12 HOURS. 

Serve the chili in a hearty bowl and garnish with sour cream.  This helps cut the heat a little too, besides being delicious.  We love to eat our chili with cornbread slathered with honey.  When I was 11 years old, I began making corn bread from the famous red and white Betty Crocker cookbook.  But since I was a kid, I liked the fun of pouring it in muffin pans.  I'm still a kid at heart and that's how I make it to this day; some things are just timeless.  Here's the recipe.   This chili gets better after a few days in the refrigerator and will be even hotter when you reheat. 

Enjoy!

Christmas Stew

Okay, so it's only called Christmas Stew because of the colors.  It's really a Chickpea and Spinach Stew with Sausage.

The basic combination of onions and tomatoes are so essential to cooking that I can hardly imagine preparing meals without them.  Whether it’s curries, Italian sauces or hearty stews, if you begin with the concept of a tomato and onion base you can go into delicious territory very quickly. 

We were craving a hearty meal and another loaf of the incredible no-knead bread at Scrumptious Street, so I started working out a stew that was based on a Catalonian concept, including the basic sofrito.

This recipe is simple and satisfying.  I would recommend using the dried chick peas (a.k.a. garbanzo beans) instead of canned.  While they would work and you could substitute the canned, I liked the dried version better because you can keep them from going completely soft and mushy and maintain a heartier mouthfeel.  The canned beans already come out so soft, I don’t like their texture as much.

Merry Christmas everyone and enjoy the stew!

Ingredients:
Serves 6-8

2 cups dried chickpeas, soaked overnight then drained and rinsed
¼ c. extra-virgin olive oil
4 garlic cloves, minced
1 large yellow onion, finely diced
1 ½ tsp. minced fresh rosemary
1 bright green bay leaf
1/8 tsp. red pepper flakes
1 28 oz. can crushed Italian tomatoes
1 c. water
½ lb. soft cooked chorizo or spicy Italian sausage, sliced
1 bunch fresh spinach, stems removed
1 T. fresh lemon juice
sea salt
freshly ground black pepper

Method:
Sort through the dried chick peas and remove any that look discolored.  Place in a large bowl and fill with 6-8 cups cold water, making sure the beans are fully covered.  Let sit overnight or at least 8 hours.  When soaked, strain the peas and rinse thoroughly with cold water.

Pour the chickpeas into a medium saucepan and fill with water, covering them with at least 2 inches of water.  Bring the water to a steady simmer and let the chickpeas cook for 1-2 hours, until they are nice and tender but not mushy.  The casings will begin to slide off when they are ready.  Drain the chickpeas, but reserve about 1 cup of the water you cooked them in.

Heat a grill pan to medium high and grill the sausage until done, turning evenly and frequently.  This will be about 12 minutes. You could cook the sausage in another fashion, but I like the smokiness of the grill method here.  Remove the sausage from heat and set aside to rest.  After 10 minutes, slice into small rounds about ¼ inch thick.

In a large and heavy stewpot, add the olive oil and heat it to shimmering.  Toss in the garlic, onion, rosemary, red pepper flakes and bay leaf and cook moderately over low heat until the onion is softened, about 5-7 minutes. Add the tomatoes and cook over moderately high heat until sizzling, about 4 minutes.  Add the cooked sausage cooked chickpeas and the reserved chickpea water and another 1 cup water.  Bring the stew to a simmer.  Stir in half the spinach and let it wilt, then stir in the remaining half of the spinach.  Simmer the stew about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally.  Season the stew with salt and pepper to taste.  Squeeze the lemon juice over the stew and stir through.  Serve immediately with hearty crusty bread.  This stew saves very well in the refrigerator for a couple of days.  Reheat gently any leftovers before serving.

P.S.  The little guy making a cameo in this shot is one of a set of cute little nutcracker place card holders my mom sent me this year.  Adorable, isn't it?

Bring on the soup!

My nose was cold.  Really cold.  And, I had to pull out the woolen scarf and gloves from their back-of-the-closet niche.  My light coat was not quite warm enough and my usually fast walking pace clicked up to nearly a jog in order to keep warm.  And there was a wide, beaming, splitting grin on my face.  That snap in the air didn't yet end in tufts of white breath coming from my mouth but soon, very soon.   And I love it.  Why?  SOUP!

Yes, I do make soup all year long; light soup, chilled soup, stew, chili-soup, cream soup, thick rich soup, decadent soup and elegant soup.  But this moment of the year, on the verge of moving into the hearty comfort soups and stews but still using fresh autumnal ingredients is really fun for me and my love of soup.  Ever the experimenter I like challenging myself.  I often start with a premise, like "soups with barley are bland" or "I like creamy soups better than broth-based soups" and then try to blow my own premise apart.  It's so much fun.  This is exactly what I did recently, when I was walking home, daring myself to create.  And yes, these two particular premises are ones that I have voiced often enough.  I made a barley and vegetable soup with a broth base and it ROCKED.  Paraphrasing the words of my favorite author, "Contradictions do not exist. Whenever you think that you are facing a contradiction, check your premises..."  It's so wonderful to create something that challenges my own opinions and challenges even meat-lovers' opinions of what can be scrumptious.

Welcome to my "Barley and Vegetable Soup with Herbs and Lemon."

Ingredients:

Serves 2

1/3 c. pearled barley
3 1/2 - 4 c. vegetable stock
1 bright green bay leaf (optional)
1 very tender celery stalk from the heart, finely chopped
1 fresh carrot, finely chopped
1 small leek, washed, trimmed and sliced
1/2 c. fresh green peas, or frozen
4 fresh sage leaves
1 c. fresh chopped shiitake or cremini mushrooms, caps only
1/2 cup water
1/8 tsp. red pepper flakes
kosher salt to taste
freshly ground black pepper to taste
1/2 fresh lemon

Method:
Add the stock to a large saucepan and set on medium-high heat on stovetop.  Add in the barley and bay leaf, if desired, bring to a low boil.  Boil the barley about 40 minutes, until tender but slightly al dente like pasta.  Add remaining ingredients except the lemon.   Stir thoroughly and when the vegetables have all become tender and the barley is fully cooked, about 5-6 mintues, the soup is ready.  Squeeze the juice of 1/2 a lemon over the soup and stir to incorporate.  Remove from the stovetop and ladle the soup into bowls, garnish with fresh herbs and serve with hearty crusty bread.

South African Butternut Squash Soup (with roasted banana!! and curry!!)

The Republic of South Africa is an endlessly fascinating land.  Its history, culture, people and topography are incredibly diverse and to me, very special.  In the mid 17th century, the Dutch East India company established a trading post in South Africa.  This post was directly in the "Spice Route" and served and replenished sailors between Europe and Asia.  The Dutch contributed their love of meat and desserts, the Dutch's Muslim slaves cooked with delicious spices and slow-cooked methods, the French Hugenots brought with them a passion for wine, the Portguese brought chilis, piri-piri and a way with fish and seafood, the British contributed their pies and puddings, the German settlers brought the craft and love of sausages and the Indian laborers brought their variety of curries and delicacies.   What I like most about cooking in South Africa is that the best "regional" dishes represent a very diverse fusion of flavors, often from at least two continents.  The people have a penchant for that sweet-n-sour combination, but also really have a palate for spices and curries.  Many of the best chefs and home cooks in South Africa are still following those bold traditions today.

A couple of years ago, my mother clipped out an article from her local newspaper and sent it to me in the mail, knowing how much we love South African cooking at Scrumptious Street. (I'm sorry if you followed that link, it's is truly one of the worst websites I have ever seen). She has been sending me newspaper articles for years and I always feel happy and nostalgic opening a letter from her that contains a note and a folded up clipping.  This particular clipping, had a recipe from Executive Chef Grant Cullingworth at Table Bay Hotel, in Cape Town. This soup is RIGHT in the heart of the cooking we love at Scrumptious Street.  I made the soup, and it is spectacular and deemed "our favorite".   Matter of fact, here is a photo I took of Mr. Scrumptious enjoying the soup to the very last drop! Yes,
he is licking the bowl.

I've adapted and embellished a bit over the past two years, but this credit all goes to Chef Cullingworth.  Here is the way I am making the Butternut Squash and Roasted Banana Curried Soup these days.  For those of you at last weekend's NYC Food Blogger's party, I tripled this recipe. 

Ingredients:
Serves 6 - 8

1 butternut squash, cleaned, peeled and diced
2 T. dark brown molasses sugar or dark brown sugar
2 T. honey
4 T. unsalted butter
1 ripe banana, unpeeled
½ medium onion, peeled and chopped
1 carrot, peeled and chopped
1 celery stalk, peeled and chopped
1 clove garlic, peeled and chopped
1 tsp. medium hot curry powder
½ tsp. ground coriander seeds
¼ tsp. ground nutmeg
¼ tsp. ground cinnamon
1 c. coconut milk
1 c. chicken or vegetable stock, plus extra
juice of 1 lime
kosher salt and freshly group black pepper to taste
garnish: fresh cilantro, pumpkin seeds, pumpkin oil

Method:
Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Sprinkle diced squash with brown sugar, honey and 2 tablespoons butter and roast in 350-degree oven until caramelized and soft to the touch, about 20 minutes; roast the unpeeled banana in the oven at the same time.

Melt the other 2 tablespoons butter in a large saucepan on medium-low heat and sweat the onion, celery and carrot for a few minutes until tender and onion is transluscent. Add the garlic, curry powder, coriander, nutmeg and cinnamon and cook slowly for a few more minutes.

Remove the banana from its skin, slice and add it with the butternut and its juices to the pan, along with the coconut milk and chicken (or veggie) broth. Simmer until hot. Remove from heat and ladle the soup into blender in small batches.  Blend the soup in a blender until smooth.  Adjust to consistency desired with more broth, if necessary.  Add fresh cilantro, lime juice and salt and pepper to taste.  Blend again until smooth and if you want a very delicate soup, pass the soup through a chinois or household strainer using a rubber spatula to press the soup through the strainer.

The soup should be served hot, so return to stovetop and gently reheat if necessary.  Pour soup into bowls and garnish with a drizzle of pumpkin seed oil, a few toasted pumpkin seeds and a sprig of fresh cilantro.

Smaaklike ete!