Moules Frites, Belgian Style

Mr. Scrumptious and I had friends over recently for a Belgian bistro-style evening of moules, frites and beer.  It was simple yet delicious and so much fun since it's the kind of meal one usually has out in a restaurant instead of home.  It wasn't purely Belgian influence, after all I did use the frites recipe from a French restaurant and chef as detailed in my earlier post.

 

The mussels were my attempt to copy a very delicious variation at another restaurant here in New York, Petit Abeille, which has delicious mussels.  While my recipe wasn't exactly the same it was close enough for homemade and great.

One thing I must emphasize very strongly is that you must get the freshest mussels possible if you're going to attempt them at home and to NOT compromise.  I aborted the plan on two other occasions because I wasn't satisfied with the mussels I had when I got them home.  Sadly, I forgot to photograph them before I cooked them but here's what you need to know:

1. Mussels should not stink.  If the smell of them turns your stomach or nose, they are too old and don't eat them.  They should smell like the sea, and quite strongly of the sea but if it is a deeply unpleasant smell, stay away from them.  I used Prince Edward Island mussels, off the coast of Canada near Nova Scotia and New Brunswick. Stay as close to your location as possible so you know they've traveled less distance.

2. Mussels should still be alive before you cook them.  This means they are still fresh.  When you open the mussles (they should have been stored on ice by the fishmonger and if in a plastic bag, they should have aerated it by cutting holes in it) gently put them in a colander and scrub them to remove any extra grit or grime.  Usually the fishmonger de-beards them but if he hasn't, just use a sharp knife and remove that bit of fuzz yourself.  Now, take each mussel and if it's slightly open, gently tap it.  It should close.  If it doesn't, squeeze again a little firmer.  If it still doesn't close, throw that one away. It's dead.  Work your way through the mussels, tapping and pressing.  Keep all that are closed tightly.  Throw away any that stay open, stink or have shells that are badly cracked.

3. The broth makes the mussels good.  The mussel itself, if fresh and cooked properly should just be kind of tender but not packed full of flavor.  The flavor and delight comes from the broth you make. 

4.  Keep the mussels on ice and in the refrigerator until you're just 5 minutes away from cooking them.  I like to pick through and clean them right when I get home to make sure I have enough for my meal plans.  Then, put them back on ice in the fridge with room to breathe. 

Here's my own recipe for "Belgian Mussels Steamed in Beer, Bacon and Leeks".

Ingredients:
Serves 4 as appetizer or with fries

6 dozen mussels, cleaned washed and debearded
2 pieces thick center cut bacon, chopped
3 fresh leeks, washed and sliced
2 shallots, chopped
1-2 T. butter
1 1/2 T. dijon mustard
3/4 pint Belgian beer (I use a high-quality Trappist ale, not something too bitter)
1/4 c. cream

Method:

1. Put a very large heavy-bottomed pot with a tight lid on the stovetop, and bring up the heat to medium.  Fry the bacon until a light golden brown, but not crispy or dark, you just want to make sure to cook it through.  Remove the bacon and drain on paper towels.  Discard the extra grease.

2. Saute the leeks and shallots with the butter, use only enough to keep it from burning in the pan.  When the shallots are transluscent, add the dijon mustard and stir to incoporate.  Add the bacon back to the pan and stir again.

3. Pour in the beer and reduce heat to medium-low.  Bring the broth up to a good simmer but not near boiling.

4.  Gently add the mussels with a wire skimmer into the broth. Put the lid on tightly and let the mussels steam until their shells open up, about 2-3 minutes.  Do not cook them longer, once the shells are fully open they are ready.  Turn off the heat of your burner.  Use the skimmer and fetch the mussels from the broth, dividing evenly into four bowls.

5.  Add the cream to the broth and stir quickly to incorporate, the broth should still be very hot.  Ladle the broth over the mussels.

Serve with frites, hearty and crusty bread and a delicious Belgian beer to keep with the theme.  Enjoy!

Comments

[Laurie]

This recipe looks really good, I just love mussels prepared many ways. And yes it is so simple to prepare.

[Stephanie Beack]

Laurie, welcome to Scrumptious Street! It's a pleasure to have you here. I'm glad you like the recipe, let me know if you try it out and agree it's good. It's amazing how simple they are, but how difficult it can be to find good mussels, right?

[Yvo]

I'm back! Mmmm.... love the fries recipe (but so much work! Can I just go to Les Halles to enjoy? I kid, I kid... I just detest deep frying so....). The mussels, both BF and I don't really like to eat. I don't know, it's just not my kind of food, though I've been tempted to order them at places I've heard they're fantastic, as I've a sneaking suspicion I just haven't had *good* ones.... yours look and sound absolutely fab...

PS Love that photograph of you! It rained on your wedding day? But in the picture it doesn't seem to bother either of you... which makes me love it even more.